Yesterday was an epic day at Hookipa! The waves were logo to mast and the wind was light and off-shore. Everyone was at the beach when my Dad and I got there and it just looked like one of those days! A day where all the pros were out shredding in the best Hookipa had to offer!
As soon as I went out I caught a wave! It was pitching up and I went down the line! I set the rail into a bottom turn, and flopped over in the water. I water-started and tried to think of what went wrong. I caught a few more waves without better results and that’s when I realized I was in a funk. It wasn’t my gear or the conditions, it was just me! So I caught the biggest wave I could find and bottom turned late. I went up under the lip which through me over the falls! I hung on for dear life and took one last breathe before getting axed by the wave. I went in a loop twice while in the barrel and then took the sleigh ride all the way in. I gasped when I breached the surface and sat on my board to take a breather. Now I was ready to sail!
For the next two hours I had one of the best sessions of my life! I was hitting the lip more vertically than ever and my bottom turns seemed almost flawless! Sometimes I need a kick in the butt to get my head in the game!