"Today was so sick!"
I woke up early for a morning jog with my Mom and the weather was really bad. From a large hill near my house I could see that the North Shore was completely socked in with rain, bummer! But later on in the day we decided to check it out anyways and believe it or not, but believe it, there was swell and wind! Alright, back up, there was logo high swell and perfect wind! I went out and immediately knew it was going to be an epic day! The waves were lining up so that if you aired over the section you could enter a sick shoulder. Finally after hours of sailing I was just about to call it a day when, out of nowhere, a set wave came rolling in with my name on it, spelled wrong. Hehe. So there was a sick wave coming in and I tacked onto it. I spotted a lip that would throw over first and I rocketed down the line, drifted into the flats while picking up speed, and hit vertically under the lip! Before I knew what happened I was flying above the wave in slow motion! The wave was perfectly glassy until a gust came over it like a snake making its way along the water, I looked up and thought I could see my Dad putting his hands up on the beach! Then, as soon as it happened, I landed back in real time and all I could do was stare at the beach like, “Did you see that?”