"When we got to Mama’s, Michi Schweiger and Dave Wissink were making it look epic!"
This morning we went to Kuau for a dawn patrol paddle session. After yesterday we weren’t going to pass up a minute of this swell! So we got down to the beach and paddled out! As soon as we got out the waves picked up and started pumping in! My Dad and I quickly got in the right spot and start catching sick waves! It was shouldering perfectly and before long it was becoming another best day ever... is that possible?
Anyways, after about an hour we saw Michi Schweiger and Dave Wissink paddle up to Mama’s which is a break a little farther down from Lanes, which is a little farther down from Hookipa. It was already getting crowded with surfers so we thought it was a good idea to go with Michi and Dave and stay out of the surfers hair! When we got to Mama’s, Michi and Dave were making it look epic! It was head high and the wave had good punch! It was a really great wave for hacking the lip and working the shoulder! What was even better was the fact that when we got done with our sesh the wind was picking up!
And a few hours later we were back at the beach and it was windy! The waves had picked up to logo high just like yesterday, I broke the sound barrier while rigging and immediately went out and caught a wave! The wind was light again so it was totally glassy on the inside! I went down the line and rolled into my bottom turn, dipping the sail down I felt a huge surge from under my feet when the board suddenly cranked up the wave! Just as quickly as I dipped the sail I brought it back up again to hit the lip. I kept driving the board into the face when, SMACK, I hit the wave right under the lip! I shot straight back down the wave and immediately went into another turn, and another turn, and another turn until I was dead tired and had to go in at the end of the day!