"I got a wave with Elena Pompei and she went straight under the lip..."
Today was the best day ever! I don’t even know where to begin. (My Dad suggests the beginning)...
Ok fine, I woke up this morning and played Halo until my folks woke up. Then we made some nuts pancakes that I inhaled! But thats just peanuts, or pancakes, what was really sick is how epic the waves were today! We drove down to Hookipa and the waves were firing! Its the middle of the summer and the waves were like head high... unbelievable! I went out and the wind was a bit light but the waves were sick. It was so glassy on the inside that I thought it was winter! Then it really turned into winter when the wind died. I sat on the beach totally bummed, but then I had the idea to get my stand-up board out! The paddling was as good as the windsurfing! I even pulled into a barrel, after which I then crashed and burned, but that’s not important!
Next, as soon as it died, the wind picked up again! So it was back to the beach for the windsurf gear! By this time the waves had picked up to logo high! I got a wave with Elena Pompei and she went straight under the lip for a sick hit right as I hit an air almost over her! That whole session was full of that epic stuff!
But then the wind fell again and it was back in to get my SUP! After a few waves I was getting really tried. I mean I can’t even convey how long I’ve been out on the water, partly because I didn’t look at my watch! But then Mickey Eskimo paddled out and I had to stay out with him for a sesh! Good decision, as time went on the waves got even better! All of a sudden the set of the day came through and I was in perfect position for it! I thought about paddling out but I had to keep my pants on and wait! Then when the wave came I spun on a dime and paddled as hard as I could! I took off pretty steep and had to practically sit on the tail to keep from pearling! Then I made my first turn and whipped straight to the top, BANG! I smacked the lip and then kicked out for more! The whole day was the bomb and I could for sure get used to this!